Design and fabrication of mesh-like four-warp leno cotton fabric based on self-locking effect - outstanding mechanical performance and breathability
At a Glance
Section titled “At a Glance”| Metadata | Details |
|---|---|
| Publication Date | 2025-01-04 |
| Journal | Cellulose |
| Authors | Xiao Tian, Mei Yu Yao, Ying Li, Li Li |
| Institutions | Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, University of Hong Kong |
| Citations | 3 |
| Analysis | Full AI Review Included |
Executive Summary
Section titled “Executive Summary”The research details the design and fabrication of a novel mesh-like Four-Warp Leno (FL) cotton fabric, engineered to achieve superior mechanical performance and breathability simultaneously through a self-locking structural effect.
- Core Innovation: Development of a programmed FL weave structure using advanced weaving techniques and improved needle-shaped heald frames, maximizing yarn interweaving and friction.
- Self-Locking Mechanism: The intertwining of four warp yarns increases yarn-to-yarn friction and enhances the interweaving angle (111°), providing greater resistance to pulling forces and limiting yarn slippage.
- Mechanical Performance: The FL fabric exhibits nearly double the tensile strength (1006 N) and strain (40%) in the warp direction compared to plain weave fabrics (LP) of equivalent density.
- Yarn Pull-Out Resistance: FL demonstrates significantly greater displacement (23 mm) required to reach the junction rupture force point compared to LP (8 mm), confirming the efficacy of the self-locked interweaving.
- Breathability Metrics: Due to its high porosity and mesh structure, FL achieves excellent air permeability (lowest air resistance: 0.01 kPa·s/m) and high water vapor transmission (8690 g/m2/24 h).
- Structural Trade-off: The self-locking effect, while enhancing strength, results in higher bending rigidity (0.0696 gf·cm2/cm) and bending hysteresis (0.2202 gf·cm/cm) compared to standard leno (TL) and low-density plain (LP) fabrics.
Technical Specifications
Section titled “Technical Specifications”| Parameter | Value | Unit | Context |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yarn Material | Cotton | - | Yarn count: 10/3S |
| Warp Density (FL, LP, TL) | 11 | threads/cm | Consistent across low-density comparison fabrics |
| Weft Density (FL, LP, TL) | 4 | threads/cm | Consistent across low-density comparison fabrics |
| Fabric Weight (FL) | 287.8 | g/m2 | Highest among low-density fabrics |
| Fabric Thickness (FL) | 1.8 | mm | Highest among all tested fabrics |
| Interweaving Angle (FL) | 111 | ° | Highest angle, contributing to self-locking |
| Warp Breaking Load (FL) | 1006 | N | Nearly double that of LP (~550 N) |
| Warp Breaking Strain (FL) | 40 | % | Highest among all tested fabrics |
| Warp Pull-Out Displacement (FL) | 23 | mm | Displacement to reach junction rupture force |
| Air Resistance (FL) | 0.01 | kPa·s/m | Lowest resistance (superior permeability) |
| Water Vapor Transmission (FL) | 8690 | g/m2/24 h | High due to large spacing/porosity |
| Warp Bending Rigidity (FL) | 0.0696 | gf·cm2/cm | Higher than LP/TL due to self-locking |
| Warp Bending Hysteresis (FL) | 0.2202 | gf·cm/cm | Higher than LP/TL due to self-locking |
| Thermal Conductivity (FL) | ~0.04 | W/mK | Comparable to LP/TL |
Key Methodologies
Section titled “Key Methodologies”The Four-Warp Leno (FL) fabric was developed using modified weaving technology focused on structural control to induce the self-locking effect.
- Heald Frame Modification: Improved needle-shaped heald frames were constructed. The first and second frames served as leno heald frames (for doup yarns), and the third and fourth frames served as base heald frames (for ground yarns).
- Yarn Grouping and Threading: Four warp yarns constituted a group. A skip threading program was utilized:
- Yarn 1: Passed through the first (doup) frame.
- Yarn 2: Passed through the third (ground) frame.
- Yarn 3: Passed through the second (doup) frame.
- Yarn 4: Passed through the fourth (ground) frame.
- Weaving Process: Weaving was conducted in cycles of four shuttles, with two groups (eight warp yarns total) forming the minimum weaving unit.
- Tensile Testing: Performed using Instron 5566 (ASTM D5035). Specimens (200 x 50 mm) were stretched at 300 mm/min with a gauge length of 75 mm, tested at 20 ± 2 °C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity.
- Yarn Pull-Out Testing: Conducted using Instron 5566. A single yarn at the center was clamped by the upper grip and pulled at 100 mm/min until fully extracted. Gauge length was 100 mm.
- Breathability Measurement:
- Air Permeability: Measured using KES-F8 tester, reporting air flow resistance (R).
- Thermal Conductivity: Measured using KES-F7 Thermo Labo II Instrument. Water box temperature set to 25 °C, BT-Box set to 35 °C. Calculated using Equation (1): k = (W x D) / (A x ΔT0).
- Water Vapor Transmission (WVT): Measured via the Desiccant method (GB/T 12704.1-2009 Part 1). Testing conditions: 38 °C and 90% relative humidity.
Commercial Applications
Section titled “Commercial Applications”The combination of high mechanical strength, excellent breathability, and structural stability positions the Four-Warp Leno (FL) fabric for demanding functional textile applications where comfort and protection are critical.
- Protective Clothing:
- Fire Incidents/Emergency Response: Used in protective clothing requiring high abrasion resistance and tensile strength (1006 N) while facilitating rapid heat and moisture expulsion (8690 g/m2/24 h WVT) for wearer comfort.
- Industrial Workwear: Applications in environments requiring robust, tear-resistant textiles that maintain comfort during strenuous activity.
- Functional Textiles and Medical Products:
- Bandages and Gauze: The mesh-like structure and high porosity make it suitable for medical textiles requiring high air flow and stability (similar to regular gauze but with superior strength).
- Reinforcement Materials: The strong interlocking structure and high junction rupture force suggest potential use in textile-reinforced composites, similar to previous leno applications in concrete reinforcement.
- Outdoor Gear and Activewear:
- High-Performance Apparel: Fabrics that must endure repeated bending and dynamic conditions (though bending rigidity is high, the overall strength/breathability balance is favorable).
- Filtration Media: The controlled, high-porosity mesh structure could be leveraged for industrial or air filtration applications.
View Original Abstract
Abstract Achieving a fabric with good mechanical performance and breathability is significant for the development of protective clothing. The leno structure is a desirable fabric design for enhancing these properties due to its advantageous characteristics, such as flexibility, lightness, diamond-shaped structure, and increased yarn interlacing. However, there is a lack of studies focused on developing novel leno structures because of the difficulty of weaving and exploring the mechanical behavior and breathability of various leno fabrics with different structural characteristics. In this study, we leveraged advanced weaving techniques with improved needle-shaped heald frames to develop a programmed mesh-like four-warp leno cotton fabric that offers outstanding mechanical performance and breathability. The efficacy of the self-locking effects, achieved by manipulating the yarn interweaving to simultaneously regulate yarn friction and fabric porosity, is experimentally demonstrated. Compared to plain structures of the same density, the four-warp leno (FL) fabric exhibits nearly twice the tensile strength and strain in the warp direction. Additionally, the four-warp leno fabric demonstrates greater displacements to reach the junction rupture force point than plain structure of the same density in the yarn pull out tests, owing to the self-locked interweaving of the warp yarns. The yarn pull-out behavior of the FL was analyzed to illustrate the variation in load and displacement. Moreover, the high porosity of the four-warp leno woven fabric results in excellent air permeability, thermal conductivity, and water vapor transmission. This study provides an effective strategy for designing and fabricating four-warp leno fabric with outstanding mechanical performance and breathability for diverse applications.